Dolce&Gabbana presents a flourish of crimson suits
2014 June 23. | Szerző: shannon
It’s no time to shy away from colour, men.
Milan Fashion Week previews opened on Saturday for next summer’s menswear, and already a trend is coming into focus: bold, electric colours.
Economic indicators suggest men have become as fashion-conscious as women. Now, Milan fashion designers are offering fashion-forward men ever more daring looks, digging into sartorial embellishments that long have been the playthings of women’s fashion: brocade, embroidery, sequins and jewel tones. Milan Fashion Week runs until Tuesday, with Bottega Veneta, Armani, Gucci and Ferragamo among the designers scheduled to show their looks in the coming days.
Costume National
A leisure suit silhouette with flared trousers, followed by leather biker outfit with laced outer seams, convey a vaguely 1970s vibe — or more specifically, an American honky-tonk tone — in Ennio Capasa’s new collection for Costume National.
But the looks defy preconceived notions. Suits are worn without shirts, or with just a vest. And instead of ties, a neat foulard is knotted just askance of the Adam’s apple. Ankle boots confirm the western feel.
The runway show’s setting, a big white industrialised space, made the colours pop: a monochrome purple suit with matching shirt, another in burnt orange, then more in soothing shades of blue. Outfits followed of pure white, with diaphanous shirts that looked more like blouses.
Capasa said he was inspired by the “liberated elegance” of rock icons, including Mick Jagger, David Bowie and Lou Reed.
The looks were finished with sunglasses and hobo bags worn over the shoulder, not in the more masculine cross-body fashion.
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Armani welcomes another newcomer
When the announcement went out that Christian Pellizzari would be making his Milan runway debut at Giorgio Armani’s theatre, the designer remarked that “it was like a bomb exploded”.
The 33-year-old native of Treviso, near Venice, has taken cues both from the disciplined sartorial brand Tonello, where he honed the skills of an Italian craftsman, and from the extravagance of Vionnet’s Paris couture, where he later worked.
Pellizzari’s looks seek to balance those two extremes. His tailoring gives a serious fashion underpinning to such extravagances as embroidered and sequined peonies, that are a motif of the season. The designer says his goal is to create clothes that his friends back home would wear, not just fashionistas. So he combines cropped jacquard trousers with casual lace-sleeved cotton tops.
An embroidered top “could be worn at the beach with a pair of shorts,” he said backstage.
He called the looks American Gigolo and heralded the free spirit by sending models down the artificial turf runway barefoot, tassels dangling around their ankles in a tribal touch.
Pellizzari , who launched his own brand four years ago, is the latest up-and-coming designer selected by Armani to preview their collections at his theatre. It’s part of Milan’s efforts to inject fresh energy into fashion weeks.
Dolce and Gabbana
Since a group of butterflies is a flutter, it seems only fair to call a parade of Dolce&Gabbana models in tailored crimson suits a flourish.
Once again, the pair consider a moment in their fabled Sicily’s history when it was the object of conquest. Last season it was the Medieval Norman invasion, this season Spanish rule.
While the Spaniards may not have specifically brought bullfighting to Sicily, it is the matador jacket, embellished with swirls of piping and ribbon, which forms the backbone of the collection — and offers the sort of baroque elements that often underpin Dolce&Gabbana style. Instead of traditional gold, these new accents are black. The jackets are worn with cropped trousers and slippers.
The designers offer a new version of their boxy top, often worn with skinny trousers, this one with pictures of charging bulls — the icon of the season. Worn around the neck to accompany this fierce image is a delicate rosary, suggesting either the fervour it must take to enter an arena with a raging bull or gratitude for having survived.
The designers have incorporated decorative elements from the traditional toreador costumes into more urban suits, including ribboning. The final distillation is a series of shiny three-piece suits with inventive scoop-neck gilets in a series of colors: cornflower blue, evergreen, emerald, purple and salmon pink — all giving way to a finale of crimson red.
This was a serious collection, heavy on ornament and light on beach wear. Unless you count a big boxer short worn with an oversized boxer’s belt.
The Rules of Men’s Jewelry
2014 January 18. | Szerző: shannon
IT HAS BEEN said a man needs no more ornaments than a watch and wedding ring. Perhaps that’s because the idea of men wearing jewelry can evoke images of gold chains framed by a barely buttoned shirt. But there are many degrees of decoration between a strict limit of watch and wedding ring—with the occasional cuff links, of course—and the stuff of “Saturday Night Fever.”
A few old-school accent pieces have started to make their way back into the gentleman’s wardrobe—the signet ring, the tie clip and the lapel pin—thanks, in part, to the influence that the ’50s have been wielding on menswear runways.
But how to wear all this hardware? “There are a million ways to get it wrong and only a few to get it right,” said Tyler Thoreson, vice president of men’s editorial and creative at Gilt Groupe. “That’s part of the fun—it’s a little tricky, and more rewarding to pull off in a sophisticated way.”
As a general rule, it’s wise to err on the side of understatement. Employing a tie clip? Skip the lapel pin. Considering multiple rings? Leave that look to the likes of Johnny Depp.
With bracelets, too, less can be more. Let the Zoolanders flaunt coils of rope and leather that creep up their forearms. For laymen, one does the trick. Robert Bryan, author of the book “American Fashion Menswear,” is a proponent of the classic chain link ID bracelet. With men’s jewelry, generally, “silver is the safer choice,” said Mr. Bryan, who also advised caution when it comes to decorative stones. “They should be small and discreet, lest you be known as the Diamond Jim Brady of the office.”
It also helps to wear pieces that have a significance beyond sheer aesthetics—jewelry that has a history or was received as a gift. “I think for men, the key is that it have meaning,” said Lisa Salzer, who designs women’s jewelry for her own label, Lulu Frost, and recently spun off a men’s line called George Frost. Tom Kalenderian, executive vice president of menswear at Barneys New York, noted that bracelets are often bought as gifts since, unlike rings, they usually don’t need to be sized.
Casual wrist-wear—beads and bracelets made of worn leather and nautical-style rope, like those popularized by American brand Miansai—suggests a life of adventure, imagined or not. However, more sophisticated pieces can carry a compelling back story, too. Jewelry designer Monique Péan, who recently launched a men’s line, uses materials with notable past lives. Ms. Péan’s tie clip is made of 18-karat recycled white gold, and ivory from a wooly mammoth sourced from the Arctic Circle, as well as onyx. “Men gravitate toward fossils,” she noted.
Her distinctive clip brings a layer of intrigue to what can otherwise be a pragmatic accent. (The tie clip—also known as tie bar or tie clasp—does serve a function, unlike other pieces of jewelry: It keeps your tie straight, out of your face on a windy day and off of your plate.)
The clip should be narrower than the tie on which it’s worn, said Mr. Thoreson. The correct placement is between the third and fourth shirt buttons. It should also be perfectly horizontal, though Mr. Bryan suggested that daring men might try the downward-tilted “rakish angle” that flourished in the 1930s.
Hogan Gidley, a Republican consultant based in Columbia, S.C., and Washington, D.C., wears a sterling-silver tie clip from Tiffany’s that’s engraved with his initials. “I might be an outlier in the party for wearing a tie clip, but I have seen more Republican pundits on TV starting to dabble in [them],” he said.
Known in political circles for being a dapper dresser, Mr. Gidley also sports a signet ring; it’s engraved with a family crest that, he said, dates back hundreds of years. Signet rings are more prevalent in the South, he noted, and can also bear the crest or seal of the wearer’s alma mater.
The signet ring is an age-old emblem of aristocratic belonging, yet designer brands are reworking the look, if not also the underlying message, into fashion accessories. See: Eddie Borgo (inlaid rubber), Bottega Veneta (a crosshatch motif that mimics the brand’s signature woven leather) and Ms. Péan (fossilized walrus ivory). One savvy tactic is to wear the ring up against a wedding band, thereby confining digital decoration to a single finger.
Another badge that has become more of a style statement is the lapel pin. In the form of an American flag, it is de rigueur among politicians. But luxury labels have embraced pins as well. Several years ago, Italian brand Isaia created a mini-craze for the coral-shaped lapel pins that come with its jackets. And fashion houses that once tacked lapel pins onto suits as a bit of runway-only styling are now selling the accessories in stores. This spring, Louis Vuitton is offering pins shaped like pretzels and marijuana roach clips while Saint Laurent is selling one that looks like a surfer shooting the curl.
Lapel pins can add a hint of personality in more buttoned-up work environments. “A lot of guys in my line of work don’t want to draw attention to themselves. They’d rather just wear the uniform,” said Chris Schumacher, a 37-year-old Manhattan financier. He wasn’t speaking for himself—he’s partial to nautical rope bracelets, and wears an enamel fox-hunting pin on his overcoat. He added, “It’s nice to see people getting away from just the watch and ring.”
Pimple After Shaving: Home Remedies
2014 January 7. | Szerző: shannon
Shaving is one of the basic grooming essentials a man has to follow. A man would look unclean and go unrecognised if he goes out without shaving for more than 3-5 days. That is why, a man has to shave whenever required. ADVERTISEMENT Shaving however causes some skin problems like skin irritation, razor cuts and burns and red bumps. Some men complain of getting acne or red pimples the next day after shaving. Well, this is not an unusual skin problem which only you face. There are a lot of men who get acne or pimple one day after shaving.
Well, the small red balls are not actually pimples. It is the ingrown hair or the body’s reaction to the injury of shaving. Do not treat it by squeezing or pricking. This can leave permanent marks behind so, always be careful if you suffer from pimple after shaving. Here are some simple remedies to treat pimples after shaving.
Home Remedies For Pimples After Shaving:
1. Use a good quality razor. Make sure you do not use the same razor after 4-5 shaves. Always clean the razor well and dry the blades after washing.
2. There are a lot of people who use electric razors to save time. Moreover, these razors make shaving an easy grooming task. If you are using an electric razor, then make sure you change the blade after 2-3 shaves. However, it is advisable to use a new single-blade razor every time you shave.
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3. Avoid using double and triple-edge blades. It pulls out the hair from the follicle which is actually below the epidermis. As the hair finds it difficult to grow out, it can lead to pimples and inflammation.
4. One of the home remedies to reduce pimples that pop up after shaving is, apply rubbing alcohol. You can either apply some aftershave as ti contains alcohol which can reduce the chances of getting red bumps and pimples after shaving.
5. Applying ice cubes on the pimple can be a relief. This is a simple home remedy to treat pimples after shaving. Rubbing ice cubes is also a remedy for other skin problems that can occur after shaving like razor cuts or burns.
6. Exfoliating before shaving is one of the ways to prevent pimples that can pop up after shaving.
7. Always shave in the downward style. Shave down instead of coming up from the neck. This will prevent skin rashes and razor bumps.
8. To prevent pimples or razor bumps after shaving, it is best to rinse the face with warm water. This dilate your blood vessels and bring more blood to the area that you are about to shave. That is why, shaving in hot shower is always considered best!
Try these remedies to reduce pimples after shaving.
With ‘Echoes of Armani’
2014 June 25. | Szerző: shannon
When performers start titling their efforts “whispers,” “memories” or “echoes” — like the “Echoes of Armani” show Tuesday — you can usually expect the farewell tour.
Giorgio Armani, on the other hand, isn’t going anywhere. As he has said many times in the press, Mr. Armani, who turns 80 in two weeks, probably will work until he drops. And he will continue to comb through his fertile back pages for ideas, motifs and gestures that have kept him in the game since the 1980 film “American Gigolo” and the body-hugging power suit.
One reason Mr. Armani remains by far the most successful designer ever to come out of Italy is his conviction that his original design note was pitched correctly. And he clearly was onto something because reverberations have rippled outward ever since.
Though the soft suiting we all now take for granted didn’t start with him, it was Mr. Armani who adapted core elements of traditional Neapolitan tailoring — natural shoulders, form-fitting suits, the use of half-linings and pliable, rather than rigid, woolens — and sold them to the world.
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That he can still put it across was made clear by both Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani this week, where, in shows spaced several days apart, Mr. Armani and his team gave evidence of having appraised a design brief in need of invigoration and then provided a jolt.
They did it with monochrome graphics. In an Emporio show emptily titled “Avant Garde,” and enough prolonged to give Marina Abramovic a run for her money in terms of duration (more than 100 looks), Mr. Armani sent out peacoats, snug bombers, mackintoshes, shiny shirts with short sleeves and shoulders that were fused rather than stitched. Hatches, slashes, windowpane checks, fishnet patterns and lane-divider stripes covered almost everything.
The full, pleated trousers the designer prefers had been tapered to follow the now nearly universal fashion for a narrow leg. On the best style, a single skinny line of contrasting color traced the crease of the pants. Happily, the thick-soled white sneakers and paddock boots — more appealing than any footwear Mr. Armani has offered in some time — were free of hectic patterns. A man needs some place to rest his eye when he crosses his legs.
Mr. Armani’s main show, presented for an audience that included the singer Joe Jonas and the actor (and Armani Code poster boy) Chris Pine, was emotionally and tonally muted, opening with two slouchy belted trenches reminiscent of Italy in the postwar years.
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The classic Armani proportions remained in place: a visually constricted chest, flowing trousers, outerwear shapes either boxy or voluminously draped. And with the exception of several brightly striped tunic jackets that looked as though they’d been swiped from a gondolier’s closet, the palette was muted.
No trends were set and none were really expected. That is only half true. Following a practice increasingly common on runways here, Mr. Armani showed his men’s wear in two dominant and divergent sets of proportion. This likely indicates less about any design inspiration than it does about the importance of penetrating emerging markets. Lest anyone miss the message, roughly a fifth of the models were Asian.
DSquared2, always shown on an early morning at the end of fashion week, can usually be counted on to gin up something to rouse the spirits of a fashion flock that, at this point on a long circuit, is generally in the grip of some type of hangover. One time it was Rihanna, in the early “Umbrella” days. Once it was a troupe of semi-drag acrobat rockers.
The clothes seldom vary much — jeans, jeans jackets, khakis, bumfreezer blazers — and, according to the mood of the twin designers Dean and Dan Caten, are either laboriously distressed or ostentatiously schoolboy proper.
There are always semi-naked hunks and expanses of hairless flesh. There is reliably a theme, and this one had something vaguely to do with artists and models. If anything about the clothes was different from whatever was the last thing DSquared2 showed, it was probably the appliqué patterns and prints that lazily alluded to Jean-Michel Basquiat and Andy Warhol.
A group of neon get-ups with Stephen Sprouse-for-Louis Vuitton graffiti scrawled across them was shown on long-haired models who bore a vague resemblance to the designer. Reminded by this dim attempt at wit how exciting things are when real ideas by gifted designers such as Mr. Sprouse are in play, this reporter closed his notebook, laid down the pen and sprinted for the exit.
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