Fashion heirs who inherit family businesses have big shoes to fill
2014 August 8. | Szerző: shannon
A couple of years ago, luxury fashion tycoon Bernard Arnault installed his son Antoine as CEO of menswear brand Berluti, and his daughter Delphine as executive vice-president at Louis Vuitton – both brands, among a prestigious plethora of others, that make up Arnault’s LVMH empire.
Fashion watchers interpreted the move as significant: could Arnault, now 65, be pitting his son and daughter against one another to potentially fill his own shoes once he steps down?
Arnault’s perceived quandary, such that it might be, is one that could be understood by a number of high-powered luxury brands that continue to be controlled – whether creatively, financially or both – by families. Ferragamo, Missoni, Fendi, Zegna, Bulgari, Swarovski, Hermès – some of the most stellar labels in the style universe are now in the hands of descendants of the founder, and these young people are being entrusted with maintaining the aesthetic and legacy of an ancestor’s vision.
In a 2011 edition of Universia Business Review, the European business publication, Italian management academics posed the question: “Why are luxury firms often family firms?” The article surmises that succession from one family member to another works when there is a successful family strategy in business, which researchers describe as “the four Cs”: continuity, community, connections and command. “It has been proved that family businesses tend to exist longer than their counterparts, which are more subject to [mergers and acquisitions].”
Certainly, there are storied family firms that have had to become part of a larger machine: Gucci, which was founded in 1921 by Guccio Gucci, fell prey to infighting, and family members ended up selling off their shares. It is now a subsidiary of French conglomerate Kering, helmed by François-Henri Pinault. On the other hand, Pucci, run by the founder Emilio’s daughter Laudomia, sold 67 per cent of its brand to LVMH in 2000 – but she retains creative and image control.
For families who have been successful at keeping their luxury brands not just alive but thriving, the term “inherited legacy” means everything.
James Ferragamo is the group women’s leather director of Salvatore Ferragamo, the Florentine fashion and accessory brand; he is also the grandson of Salvatore and the son of Ferruccio, the company’s CEO. He represents a new breed of fashion heirs – smart, accomplished, refreshingly lacking in any air of entitlement – and seems to know what it takes to make stepping into a family business work. “I would say, stay true to the values of your family, and work hard to bring your own original contribution, because you’re not there to reproduce what others did before you, nor to subvert it, but to develop and enhance it,” he says.
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Indeed, various family members still sit on the board, including Salvatore’s other children, Leonardo, Fulvia and Giovanna. And a recent handbag launch was inspired by James’ late aunt Fiamma, who died in 1998 and who designed the footwear and leather accessories for the brand for 40 years.
“[It] is dedicated to all the women of our family who have always played central roles in the development of our business,” Ferragamo says. “Fiamma embodied our brand at its best.”
Family businesses that have successfully passed the baton from one generation to another need to be savvy enough to choose the best candidate for the job, same last name notwithstanding. Margherita Missoni is known widely as a model, actress and heiress to the brand founded by her grandparents, Ottavio and Rosita Missoni, in 1953.
But the 31-year-old graduate of Columbia University is far more than that: she is in charge of the accessories, beachwear and children’s lines while retaining her position as “brand ambassador” – a role she stepped into seamlessly when she was 18 and wearing the Missoni label at all the hot spots. “I began hitting the party scene, and people were seeing this fresh, reborn brand on me,” she says. “The clothing and me were well-suited for each other.”
Still, Missoni says she struggled somewhat with her heritage in her early years, and decamped to New York for a while to get into acting and modelling.
“Clothing and design have been part of my life since I was born, and I kind of wanted to get away from it to understand who I was,” she says. “Now with my responsibilities, I’ve found that I have more drive than ever before. I respect the family I come from and my job. I know I wouldn’t be in the place I am if I hadn’t grown up in this family, but this is also the reason why I can be good at this job – I was born into and grew up surrounded by the Missoni vision. So I don’t need to adapt my taste to its aesthetic, because I have integrated it into my own self since I was a child.”
The greater challenge would appear to be for a family member to maintain an entrenched aesthetic when new owners take over. Last year, brothers Sergio and Pier Luigi Loro Piana, descendants of Pietro Loro Piana, who established the brand in 1924, sold a majority stake in their company to LVMH while staying on in advisory roles. Pier Luigi says the decision to sell off most of his family’s business to the LVMH empire was based on it being “for the best of the company”.
“Considering the family story was to secure the company’s success … LVMH was the group that has more vision and capacity to develop Loro Piana into the future … not always [can] the story of the future of the family be exactly the same as [what] is best for the company.”
In the meantime, members of families involved in the business are resigned to the fact that their personal, family and business lives are intertwined – and they do feel the weight of responsibility of maintaining a generations-old reputation.
“On a personal level,” Ferragamo says, “it means having the courage and capacity to act with self-assurance and coherence, a passion for my work, pride in belonging to the world of Ferragamo, and a sensibility towards individuals and respect for their needs.”
Steve’s New Girl… Aquazzura Takes Hong Kong
2014 August 4. | Szerző: shannon
Peace Sign
Steve Madden is California dreaming. The namesake exec has a new blogger collaboration, this time with Shea Marie, the Los Angeles-based designer behind Peace Love Shea. “I had never met him, and I thought they just wanted to give me a pair of shoes,” Marie recalled. “I didn’t expect Steve to be there or want to work with me. I tried to play it cool and said, ‘Yeah, okay, maybe.’” The partnership eventually worked out — and seven styles will launch at select Steve Madden stores and online on Sept. 4. Retailers such as Shopbop , Nordstrom and Macy’s will stock the line beginning Sept. 8. The collection features boots with pony hair touches, stilettos with lug soles, a mixed-material loafer and a studded sneaker. “I bring a bit of laid-back cool, edgy and a little bit grungy,” Marie said. To fete the Peace Love Shea x Steve Madden collaboration, the brand will host an influencer party to kick off New York Fashion Week. Here, Madden gives his two cents to Spy.
1. Why were you drawn to Shea Marie?
“She’s an American girl, she loves fashion and [likes] to vamp it up. I really connected with her after the [campaign] shoot. She was sharing her texting secrets, but I can’t tell you [what they are about].”
2. Shea is based in California. What is your favorite part about the West Coast?
“I love to play golf in Southern California, and I like to drive around — it’s physically beautiful between the mountains and the ocean and the canyons. It’s really unbelievable, very different from New York City and this concrete jungle we live in.”
3. What excites you about bloggers, and who could be next as a partner?
“We just did a great collaboration with The Blonde Salad [Chiara Ferragni], and we have Man Repeller [Leandra Medine] for Superga. We’ve been very lucky with it. They all get Gucci and Louboutin, but they also understand Steve, so I appreciate that. I really like Cupcakes and Cashmere blogger [Emily Schuman].”
Shopping Spree
Aquazzura’s Edgardo Osorio recently ventured to China for an event at Lane Crawford’s IFC Mall store in Hong Kong. Consumers came ready to shop the Aquazzura x Olivia Palermo collection. “One customer arrived and bought everything available in size 35. Another arrived with her personal assistant and managed to shop the collection, pre-order and get her shoes signed in under 15 minutes. Now that’s power shopping,” Osorio said. Then he added, “Another person saw that I posted I was at Lane Crawford on Tuesday, flew to Hong Kong and went to the store — but she was two days too early for the event!” The fashion designer said he “was amazed by how young and fashion-forward the [Hong Kong] clientele is. They responded incredibly quickly through social media.” Plus, he had the chance to reunite with his muse. “It was a pleasure to see Sarah Rutson, [Lane Crawford] fashion director, who has always been in my mood boards and whose style is always an inspiration,” he said.
Wild West
Welcome to Hollywood, Danner Boots. This December, its Mountain Light Cascade style will make its film debut in “Wild,” starring Reese Witherspoon. Based on the best-selling book by Cheryl Strayed, the movie takes its heroine on a journey of self-discovery across more than a thousand miles of the Pacific Crest Trail. “The costume designer reached out to see if we could replicate the boot [worn] in the book, and we came up with this style based on our original [circa-1980s] Mountain Light style,” said Will Pennartz, senior marketing manager. More than 20 pairs of the look were ordered for Witherspoon, who, in one scene, throws one boot off a cliff, according to Pennartz. For those who want to walk in Witherspoon’s shoes, the hikers will be available in October at retailers including American Rag, James Perse and REI for $299.
Tall Order
Talk about workplace perks. REI head Jerry Stritzke said he didn’t have to go far from home to plan for an upcoming trip up Seattle’s imposing Mt. Ranier. The CEO — who’s set to summit the 14,410-foot glacier-topped mountain this month — sat in on an in-store class at the retail co-op to help prepare. “I went to one of our classes in our flagship store in Seattle — I was there with about 150 people,” he told Spy. “The only downside as I looked around is I was probably the oldest guy in the room.” Stritzke, who joined REI last year from New York-based Coach, said he’s appreciating the Kent, Wash.-based retailer’s outdoor culture. “We have some phenomenal athletes, and so that’s kind of one of the neat things about being here. You have a lot of people who enjoy doing the kind of things that are intriguing to you,” he said.
LFW Winter/Festive to see Sonaakshi Raaj’s fusion line
2014 July 30. | Szerző: shannon
Designer Sonaakshi Raaj with sister and muse Malvika Raaj, was present at the curtain raiser of Lakme Fashion Week Winter Festive 2014, at the Palladium Hotel, Mumbai.
Sonaakshi Raaj is geared up to showcase her latest fusion line ‘Rebel With A Cause’, at Lakme Fashion Week Winter Festive 2014.
‘Rebel With A Cause’ – The newest collection by Sonaakshi Raaj is a dichotomy of opulence and luxury, yet being edgy. The essence of the line is to create glamorous ensembles catering to women’s couture wear, with a design philosophy that is distinctly feminine and refined.
Malvika Raaj looked stunning dressed in Sonaakshi Raaj’s creation. She sported a nude and metallic black hand embroidered mesh work backless tunic with palazzos.
The key concept of the collection is the usage of traditional drapes and silhouettes, with a twist for the new age woman, who likes to experiment and is no longer bound by the stereotype. By combining tailoring with drapery, the garments are meticulously crafted to styles that are luxurious yet understated, with strong emphasis on fabric, cut and colour.
Says designer Sonaakshi Raaj, “This season, my line is intricately designed as a toast to the bold, beautiful and independent new age woman, who knows her mind and is not afraid to experiment and create her distinct style statement.”
About Sonaakshi Raaj:
Designer Sonaakshi Raaj is a graduate from SNDT University holding a Degree of B.A. in Apparel Manufacture & Designing.
The Label came into existence in 2009, by winning the University’s Best Collection Award. Thereafter, bagged the 1st position by winning the prestigious “CMAI APEX NATIONAL AWARD” for the “Best Upcoming Designer of the Year.”
Sonaakshi Raaj is predominantly recognized as the Sari-Gown specialist and has been rated as the top 25 young designers on Vogue’s radar. She is a pioneer in her field with her highly popularized Sari-Gowns and contemporary Indian wear for the new age women.
Sonaakshi is one of the very few Indian Designers who has been featured for her popular work on the website of Mercedes Benz New York Fashion Week.
Messy, wavy hairdos replace sleek sculpted look
2014 July 21. | Szerző: shannon
Now seems to be the time to bid adieu to perfect Victorian ringlets and immaculately tied French knots and go all messy with respect to hairstyle.
Fashionistas and filmstars ranging from Bollywood divas like Deepika Padukone to those from Hollywood like Cheryl Cole are preferring stunningly messy dos, a transition from neatly styled tresses.
“A messy hair bun does not imply a look achieved out of the turmoil of wind, it is still fundamentally a bun but the thing is to keep the hairdo as natural as possible. The idea is to work with the hair and not against it,” says celebrity hairstylist Rod Anker.
Anker, who was recently appointed as a brand ambassador of haircare brand Schwarzkopf Professional lists boho chic braids, messy hairbuns and natural curls as three most popular hairdos for the season.
“Girls do not want the conventional straightening or neat buns anymore. Rumpled up pixie look, random twists and turns to a messy bob, asymmetrical side bangs with natural wavy look are very popular with women who visit us,” says Hassan, a senior hairdresser at Anker’s Monsoon Salon. The vintage braid or the French plait, say stylists is also seeing a return but with a twist. Also wavy hair accompanied by a side swept fishtail braid seems to be another latest trend for fashion forward women.
“A lot of girls are going for buns and plaits nowadays. Earlier, a lot of them feared that this would add more years to their age by giving them a mature look but now with a ruffled tinge to the bun, wavy and scrunch look back in fashion, they are no longer shying from them,” says Jeet Singh the head hairstylist at Showstopper Salon in Preet Vihar.
Anker says there is talk about bohemian chic “It is a more 70s look hair style with a natural make up and nude lips. One hair style is a combination of neat and clean with a little bit of texture through the braids and not over done with the messy hair look,” he says.
Also women, say stylists, are experimenting with their hair owing to the rise in their awareness of internationally popular hairstyles and even hair colours. “Creative chunks especially in deep red or burgundy and champagne highlights are also a lot in demand” says Hassan.
Anisha Khanna, a masters student from Jesus and Mary College says, “I am a big fan of updos where twirling the hair and braiding them are involved. I want to look different and I do not care if I do not fit a quintessential homely girl type. I know the ombre hair colour technique is really in and I intend to try it out soon.”
Fashion Talk with Laura Byrnes: Exclusive Interview with Pinup Girl Clothing
2014 July 4. | Szerző: shannon
Located in the heart of California lies the best selection of vintage designs and representations of the retro era, Pinup Girl Clothing. As one of the best places to shop, they offer an extensive selection of timeless classics that have been modernized to captivate your inner and outer hauteness. Recently, I had the opportunity to speak with the woman who started it all, the amazing Laura Byrnes. Here is what she had to tell me…
(Q) Hello Laura. How are you? It’s great to finally talk to you. I am a big fan of your work. First and foremost, I just want to say that everything at Pinup Girl Clothing is just so fabulous. It’s almost as if it brings me back to a different time. The timeless designs are classic, but yet have such a modernized appeal to them which I truly love.
Hello Sarah. I am great. Thank you so much.
(Q) For all of those fashion fanatics reading this interview, can you tell them a little more about Pinup Girl Clothing? I am also curious to know, what inspired you to create this store? Tell me a little more about this…
We started in 1997, but we didn’t launch the website until 1999. I was pregnant with my first daughter in 1996 and I received some baby clothes from my aunt for my baby shower. I thought they were gorgeous and adorable. It turned out they were homemade. I was so intrigued that I decided that I wanted to make clothes for my baby. So, I had my husband’s mom give me a couple of sewing lessons, so she did. After I learned the basics, I decided to get a sewing machine and just started progressing from there. So, at first I was just making baby clothes. Once you learn how to make a pattern for baby clothes, you tend to learn more from there. Babies are great to start on. I truly recommend that if anyone wants to sew, definitely get a baby.
(Q) Hahaha, that is so cute. I love this story!
They are little barrels with arms and legs. You don’t have to worry about their shape. You can learn from there. I didn’t start out using a lot of fabrics, while learning to sew, so in case I would mess it up because if you mess it up, you can start over. So, from there, I started making my own clothes. It was the late 90s and I’m a punk rock chick, and I couldn’t find anything in the stores that fit my style, so from there I decided to make clothes for myself. I have been into fashion since I was 13. From that point, I actually got pretty decent. I was starting to make my friends clothes. It just kind of snowballed from there. The first 2 years, one of the reasons we didn’t launch the website was because I was very busy, doing commissions for people. I was making clothes. I really enjoyed swing dancing designs. If you have ever watched the movie Swingers, it is pretty much the precursor to big pinup, vintage scene that is happening now.
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It just kind of grew from there. So, then I launched the website. We grew really slowly. We were making clothes custom up until about 2003, I think and then we switched to production. We did that because we were getting so busy and at that point we were losing money. Trying to do so many custom pieces, it took too long so sew each piece and we only had 6 in-house seamstresses. They were constantly busy. We did everything from clothes for burlesque dancers to swing and exotic dancers, you name it. So, we just kind of grew from there. It’s interesting, I remember getting interviewed by a local paper about vintage inspired clothes. They called me up and proceeded to ask me questions. One of them was something along the lines of “what are you going to do when this trend is over?” and I told them that I don’t think that this is a trend. There is always going to be a market for well fitting, classic, high quality clothing that flatter people’s figures.
(Q) Most definitely. It’s “in” forever. I agree with you.
Exactly. So basically, the classic 50s silhouette has actually never gone out of style. It’s been reinterpreted, but there has never been an era since then when the basic shape disappeared. Even what Dior was doing with the wasp waist. If you read his biography, you will realize he was born in 1905 and his mother was a Victorian woman. And she in the early turn of the century would wear corsets and very structured clothing. Dior was inspired by that. You know, the corseted waist and he just put full skirts on everything along with the corseted waist. That was his innovation. The fitted bottom full skirt, fitted waist, aesthetically has not gone out of style since the 50s. Maybe in the 70s people were going in another direction, but even then you could find the wrap dress. But that is how we started.
(Q) I have to tell you Laura, I truly love that you got so in depth with this. When it comes to fashion, you truly know what you are talking about. That is so impressive.
Thank you. I am obsessed when it comes to fashion. I take it very seriously.
(Q) You know, I can tell by not only talking to you, but looking at your website and your work. It shows in your work, as a result. So, I wanted to tell you that I am amazed at how gorgeous the designs are. I wanted to ask you, currently, what are best selling pieces right now?
We have a lot. We actually got to a point where we had to separate the lines. Internally, we have a category called “Classics” as these are styles we cannot keep in stock. They sell out so quickly. We started to budget to keep those in stock as much as possible. I would say the top sellers would be the “Monica Dress”, which I find amazing because if you look at the Monica it is this super sexy, fitted wiggle, cocktail dress and you think to yourself where would I wear that? It is our top seller right now.
My “Laura Byrnes Trousers” were a sleeper in the beginning. At first I think people were afraid of them because it’s so hard to find a good fitting, pair of pants. I think women wear jeans because they will accentuate and mold to your body over time. Denim tends to give over time, so it kind of keeps that shape. People buy denim because it’s easy and they can get it to fit. It is really hard to find a pair of good fitting trousers. I just want to say that we are so lucky to have such a strong social media following. We interact with them, as much as they interact with us. We love our customers as much as they love us. When the customers started posting photos of themselves in the trousers, it was amazing to see. The woman in the 2X looked amazing and the woman in the extra small looked amazing. I love to see women of all sizes wear them. We did the trouser in about 9 different colors and patterns so far, I think.
The “Vamp Dress” along with the “Vamp Top” which is a basic wiggle dress, with a cute bra top. We can’t ever keep it in stock. So, to be honest, we have quite a few top sellers, but the trousers, the Monica dress, the Vamp dress, and top come immediately to mind.
(Q) That is amazing. I was going to tell you too that I absolutely love the Birdie Dress, the Jessica Dress, the Heidi Dress, and the Vamp Dress along with the Gia Dress. All gorgeous. I wanted to ask you, where do you get the inspiration to name these dresses?
The very first dress I named was when I realized I had to go into production. I had to stop making custom because I was going to produce my very first line of dresses. I had to choose 6 or 7 styles at that time, so I was sitting with a friend of mine at a diner actually. We were talking about how we wanted a basic dress. The “Nettie Dress”, a cute little sundress with spaghetti straps. The woman I was having dinner with was named Jeanette, but we called her ‘Nettie’ for short, so I am drawing out the dress. She says to me that she always wanted a dress made out of the candy dot. You know, the candy sheet of candy dots? Well, I thought it would be so cute to have little dots of all different colors. So, she came up with the print for the very first Nettie. That was when I said to her that this will be called the Nettie Dress. So, we named that particular dress after her.
I love it because usually when manufacturers do a design they give it some sort of weird letter or number designation. I am a very visual person and I am terrible with spreadsheets and numbers. I can do geometry and all of that abstract math. I find it easier to identify the dresses by names. So, we started naming them after models, friends, and even customers. The “Heidi Dress” is named after pinup model Heidi Van Horne who was modeling for us at the time. We have so many dresses named after our models. We have a “Micheline Dress” as well as a “Masuimi Dress” and much more. The “Ella Dress” is named after a customer. I’ve named a dress after my sister, as well as, my mom. A lot of our dresses are named after people we know, etc.
(Q) That is amazing!
Yes, it is a great way to identify the dresses. We also try to envision the person inside of the dress. Sometimes it will be a classic celebrity. For instance; the “Sophia Dress” was named after Sophia Loren. The “Rita Dress” was named after Rita Hayworth. So, we imagine and envision the woman in the dress and that is basically how we kind of do it. It’s very creative and a lot of fun. It’s also very easy to remember.
(Q) Wow, that is amazing. I wanted to tell you that your styles are so cute and timeless, but I truly see a modernized appeal that is so unique and haute.
I am always inspired. In fact, I have a ton of reference material. I actually collect old magazines, catalogs, and so on. It’s very easy to open up those books, take a look at a vintage dress, and copy it. But to me, it’s well, 2014. Hahaha. There is a lot of variety and different styles out there, but I find it easy and fun to take them and update them for the modern woman. Sometimes the styles from that generation were odd. If you look at the sleeves on some of the dresses from that time, you will notice how some are almost down to your elbow, so it’s not really a half sleeve or even a quarter length sleeve. I don’t know what kind of sleeve it is. So, when I see a beautiful vintage dress and I get inspired, the first thing I correct are the sleeves.
(Q) That is fantastic. You are truly talented.
I don’t want to sound arrogant, but I consider myself to be a designer. I learned to make patterns and from there, I executed those patterns into my designs. I don’t consider myself to be a manufacturer.
(Q) You know, that doesn’t sound arrogant at all because you are just telling the truth.
Well, sometimes women kind of get shamed for telling the truth. I don’t know if you have ever noticed that.
(Q) I have noticed that. I think that definitely has to change.
Initially and also as a designer, I have had some dresses that were very close to inspirational pieces. Sometimes you look at something and you think you can do something to better to it. To me, if you are going to call yourself a designer what you need to be doing is taking your own inspiration and creating your own items. It is ok to base it on anything. No one creates something from nothing. When I read about Christian Dior, he was heavily influenced by my other favorite designer Charles James. He isn’t as well known because he was very difficult to work with. Dior had the personality. Charles James was an engineering genius, but he was difficult. He always came in after deadline and over budget. When you look at Charles James work 10 years before Dior, you can see what Dior took inspiration wise and as a result, he credited him. So, to me everyone takes inspiration from something or someone. You want to be identifiable. When you see a woman walking down the street wearing our dresses, you can tell it’s our dress. We wanted the dresses to be modern, but also harken back to its roots and original silhouette from the middle of the century.
(Q) That is amazing. You know, I wanted to tell you that the first thing that I noticed about Pinup Girl Clothing is the fact that you have collections, as well. Everything from ‘Party Glamour’ to ‘Spring Fling’ etc. I am looking at all of the dresses and they are so original, so classic, and so unique in a sense where it’s current and haute. I also love the fact that you use all different kinds of patterns too. I also love the fact that you use models with all different types of body types, as well. There is nothing more shameful and sad than fashion and brand discrimination.
I have a little problem with that, with discrimination. I hate hearing when it does come up. When mainstream designers are asked about it, they always come up with the crappiest reasons. They are just cop-outs. They say “well, that’s the sample size and that can’t change.” Why do you have only these models that are tiny? The magazines say “well, we have to use a size 0 because the samples from the designers are a size 0.” It is just wrong.
(Q) I agree with you 100% Laura.
It’s like a whole entire circle jerk just circling the drain. They always go with a size 0 and don’t know why. I’m sorry, but you know why. You know why? I will tell you why. Because it’s all about high-end fashion and the only people who are buying it are very rich people. Very rich men, in particular with their very rich girlfriends or wives. Do these very rich men require their women to be that size? They are dressing their trophies. The consumer, the average woman who is buying clothing is all different shapes and sizes and that is the reality of it all. I recommend the book “The Theory Of The Leisure Class” by Thorstein Veblen. He is the man who coined the term conspicuous consumption and he speaks about this in his book that whenever the elite do something, everyone below it starts to copy it because they want to be seen as better than they are and it creates this kind of feedback, this kind of pattern of the only thing anyone ever wants to do. Then, people are scared to change it. Going back to the models, if they use a model that is a different size (say a size 10) than the average model (a size 0), what is going to happen? Well, the truth is the woman who is the size 10 will be happy and she is going to look at that size 10 model and know how the clothing is going to fit her. To me, it’s logic and has always been logic.
(Q) That is so amazing and I have to point out that I love the way that you think, as well. You definitely lay it out there in a sense where you can speak for the vast majority of status quo society. We live in this society where people believe a woman should be a size 0. Sometimes even lower than that to look beautiful.
Women should be “screw you”. We don’t sit there and criticize men. We don’t sit there and say in order for men to be accepted they should be this height or this size, etc. No one sits there and criticizes the man if he doesn’t have a wash board stomach. It just doesn’t happen, you know. The fact is, women are pressured. When a woman starts criticizing another woman it is one of the most damaging things ever. This creates tension among women and how they view each other. Then, they try to police and judge other women. When something goes against what is accepted as normal, they find themselves feeling inferior. When society in general turns against someone because of how they look, that is wrong.
(Q) Most definitely.
When I started my company, I didn’t start it to become rich or famous. Sure, it was nice to have the means to put food on the table and a little bit of money into my daughters college fund. I didn’t come from a family with money. I started it because I just wanted to be secure and just be happy. I also started it because I wanted to make other people happy. In fact, that has always been the ultimate goal for me. I want my customers to be happy and it certainly doesn’t make them happy to only see one type of woman to represent a brand. You hear all of these people making excuses for why this is happening. So, I felt that if I was going to do this and I was going to sell clothing in all different sizes, I had to put my money where my mouth is and feature models of every single size.
The same goes for ethnicity, as well. I see people who make excuses why they won’t use a model of a certain ethnicity. To me, that is an element of racism there. They are afraid of using a model who is not white is going to bring down their brand. “Oh no, it’s going to appeal to the urban people” and so forth. No, it is not. Use the Latino models, use African American models, use everybody. Using all ethnicities will bring you a lot of customers and I welcome anyone and everyone to shop with us.
(Q) That is so great. For all of those fashion fanatics and enthusiasts reading this interview, what would you like them to know? What is next for Pinup Girls Clothing?
We try not to think too far ahead. We are always constantly creating something new. This year has been all about polishing everything. We are working effectively, as well as, efficiently. Getting everything done that we need to do. Our customer base in the last two years has really expanded. It has been great, but does take a toll on our production capacity to keep up. So, this year we have been concentrating on increasing production and so, we do look ahead, but we kind of let our instincts and our customers guide us. For instance; we hear from customers “well, why don’t you have this?” or “why don’t you have that?” One thing that is coming up soon is that we are launching a maternity line within the next couple of months.
(Q) That is amazing!
I was pregnant in 2012 and in 2013, so every time I posted a photo of myself in Pinup Girl, fans and customers would ask for a maternity line. Some of the clothing already works, however; once I got a little bigger, I had to alter some of the styles. And as a result, everyone suggested that I start a maternity line. So, that is what is coming soon and I am very excited about it.
We would also like to open up a couple of new stores. That is on the back burner right now. It is something we want to focus more on in the future. We are kind of just letting our instincts guide us. We also don’t believe in growing super quickly.
With ‘Echoes of Armani’
2014 June 25. | Szerző: shannon
When performers start titling their efforts “whispers,” “memories” or “echoes” — like the “Echoes of Armani” show Tuesday — you can usually expect the farewell tour.
Giorgio Armani, on the other hand, isn’t going anywhere. As he has said many times in the press, Mr. Armani, who turns 80 in two weeks, probably will work until he drops. And he will continue to comb through his fertile back pages for ideas, motifs and gestures that have kept him in the game since the 1980 film “American Gigolo” and the body-hugging power suit.
One reason Mr. Armani remains by far the most successful designer ever to come out of Italy is his conviction that his original design note was pitched correctly. And he clearly was onto something because reverberations have rippled outward ever since.
Though the soft suiting we all now take for granted didn’t start with him, it was Mr. Armani who adapted core elements of traditional Neapolitan tailoring — natural shoulders, form-fitting suits, the use of half-linings and pliable, rather than rigid, woolens — and sold them to the world.
That he can still put it across was made clear by both Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani this week, where, in shows spaced several days apart, Mr. Armani and his team gave evidence of having appraised a design brief in need of invigoration and then provided a jolt.
They did it with monochrome graphics. In an Emporio show emptily titled “Avant Garde,” and enough prolonged to give Marina Abramovic a run for her money in terms of duration (more than 100 looks), Mr. Armani sent out peacoats, snug bombers, mackintoshes, shiny shirts with short sleeves and shoulders that were fused rather than stitched. Hatches, slashes, windowpane checks, fishnet patterns and lane-divider stripes covered almost everything.
The full, pleated trousers the designer prefers had been tapered to follow the now nearly universal fashion for a narrow leg. On the best style, a single skinny line of contrasting color traced the crease of the pants. Happily, the thick-soled white sneakers and paddock boots — more appealing than any footwear Mr. Armani has offered in some time — were free of hectic patterns. A man needs some place to rest his eye when he crosses his legs.
Mr. Armani’s main show, presented for an audience that included the singer Joe Jonas and the actor (and Armani Code poster boy) Chris Pine, was emotionally and tonally muted, opening with two slouchy belted trenches reminiscent of Italy in the postwar years.
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The classic Armani proportions remained in place: a visually constricted chest, flowing trousers, outerwear shapes either boxy or voluminously draped. And with the exception of several brightly striped tunic jackets that looked as though they’d been swiped from a gondolier’s closet, the palette was muted.
No trends were set and none were really expected. That is only half true. Following a practice increasingly common on runways here, Mr. Armani showed his men’s wear in two dominant and divergent sets of proportion. This likely indicates less about any design inspiration than it does about the importance of penetrating emerging markets. Lest anyone miss the message, roughly a fifth of the models were Asian.
DSquared2, always shown on an early morning at the end of fashion week, can usually be counted on to gin up something to rouse the spirits of a fashion flock that, at this point on a long circuit, is generally in the grip of some type of hangover. One time it was Rihanna, in the early “Umbrella” days. Once it was a troupe of semi-drag acrobat rockers.
The clothes seldom vary much — jeans, jeans jackets, khakis, bumfreezer blazers — and, according to the mood of the twin designers Dean and Dan Caten, are either laboriously distressed or ostentatiously schoolboy proper.
There are always semi-naked hunks and expanses of hairless flesh. There is reliably a theme, and this one had something vaguely to do with artists and models. If anything about the clothes was different from whatever was the last thing DSquared2 showed, it was probably the appliqué patterns and prints that lazily alluded to Jean-Michel Basquiat and Andy Warhol.
A group of neon get-ups with Stephen Sprouse-for-Louis Vuitton graffiti scrawled across them was shown on long-haired models who bore a vague resemblance to the designer. Reminded by this dim attempt at wit how exciting things are when real ideas by gifted designers such as Mr. Sprouse are in play, this reporter closed his notebook, laid down the pen and sprinted for the exit.
Dolce&Gabbana presents a flourish of crimson suits
2014 June 23. | Szerző: shannon
It’s no time to shy away from colour, men.
Milan Fashion Week previews opened on Saturday for next summer’s menswear, and already a trend is coming into focus: bold, electric colours.
Economic indicators suggest men have become as fashion-conscious as women. Now, Milan fashion designers are offering fashion-forward men ever more daring looks, digging into sartorial embellishments that long have been the playthings of women’s fashion: brocade, embroidery, sequins and jewel tones. Milan Fashion Week runs until Tuesday, with Bottega Veneta, Armani, Gucci and Ferragamo among the designers scheduled to show their looks in the coming days.
Costume National
A leisure suit silhouette with flared trousers, followed by leather biker outfit with laced outer seams, convey a vaguely 1970s vibe — or more specifically, an American honky-tonk tone — in Ennio Capasa’s new collection for Costume National.
But the looks defy preconceived notions. Suits are worn without shirts, or with just a vest. And instead of ties, a neat foulard is knotted just askance of the Adam’s apple. Ankle boots confirm the western feel.
The runway show’s setting, a big white industrialised space, made the colours pop: a monochrome purple suit with matching shirt, another in burnt orange, then more in soothing shades of blue. Outfits followed of pure white, with diaphanous shirts that looked more like blouses.
Capasa said he was inspired by the “liberated elegance” of rock icons, including Mick Jagger, David Bowie and Lou Reed.
The looks were finished with sunglasses and hobo bags worn over the shoulder, not in the more masculine cross-body fashion.
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Armani welcomes another newcomer
When the announcement went out that Christian Pellizzari would be making his Milan runway debut at Giorgio Armani’s theatre, the designer remarked that “it was like a bomb exploded”.
The 33-year-old native of Treviso, near Venice, has taken cues both from the disciplined sartorial brand Tonello, where he honed the skills of an Italian craftsman, and from the extravagance of Vionnet’s Paris couture, where he later worked.
Pellizzari’s looks seek to balance those two extremes. His tailoring gives a serious fashion underpinning to such extravagances as embroidered and sequined peonies, that are a motif of the season. The designer says his goal is to create clothes that his friends back home would wear, not just fashionistas. So he combines cropped jacquard trousers with casual lace-sleeved cotton tops.
An embroidered top “could be worn at the beach with a pair of shorts,” he said backstage.
He called the looks American Gigolo and heralded the free spirit by sending models down the artificial turf runway barefoot, tassels dangling around their ankles in a tribal touch.
Pellizzari , who launched his own brand four years ago, is the latest up-and-coming designer selected by Armani to preview their collections at his theatre. It’s part of Milan’s efforts to inject fresh energy into fashion weeks.
Dolce and Gabbana
Since a group of butterflies is a flutter, it seems only fair to call a parade of Dolce&Gabbana models in tailored crimson suits a flourish.
Once again, the pair consider a moment in their fabled Sicily’s history when it was the object of conquest. Last season it was the Medieval Norman invasion, this season Spanish rule.
While the Spaniards may not have specifically brought bullfighting to Sicily, it is the matador jacket, embellished with swirls of piping and ribbon, which forms the backbone of the collection — and offers the sort of baroque elements that often underpin Dolce&Gabbana style. Instead of traditional gold, these new accents are black. The jackets are worn with cropped trousers and slippers.
The designers offer a new version of their boxy top, often worn with skinny trousers, this one with pictures of charging bulls — the icon of the season. Worn around the neck to accompany this fierce image is a delicate rosary, suggesting either the fervour it must take to enter an arena with a raging bull or gratitude for having survived.
The designers have incorporated decorative elements from the traditional toreador costumes into more urban suits, including ribboning. The final distillation is a series of shiny three-piece suits with inventive scoop-neck gilets in a series of colors: cornflower blue, evergreen, emerald, purple and salmon pink — all giving way to a finale of crimson red.
This was a serious collection, heavy on ornament and light on beach wear. Unless you count a big boxer short worn with an oversized boxer’s belt.
Kylie Jenner’s MMVA Style Ruled Too
2014 June 17. | Szerző: shannon
Poor Kylie Jenner. With sisters like tabloid queen Kim Kardashian and actual, legit, up-and-coming model Kendall Jenner, the 16-year-old is constantly getting upstaged by practically everyone in the Kardashian family (even Rob, amidst his much-publicized weight issues and the family’s rumored ire over him skipping the Kimye wedding) and missing out on all the attention typically reserved for the baby in the family.
I mean, sure, she dates the ridiculously cute and equally famous Jaden Smith; has nearly 10 million Instagram followers; and recently “wrote” a young adult novel, so yes, she gets her fair share of time in the spotlight. But when it comes to fashion, at least, it’s rare that the youngest Kardashian klan member is the topic of conversation.
Take Sunday’s 2014 MuchMusic Video Awards, for example. Hosted by both Kendall and Kylie, I would wager that at least three-quarters of the buzz surrounding the annual event and its fierce fashion has to do with Kendall’s insanely sexy, double-slit, super-leg-baring gown, or even the cutout-back, python-print dress she slipped into during the awards show. And as much as these sultry looks earned the limelight they received, it must be said: Kylie’s ensembles deserved their fair share of praise and attention, too.
Let’s just start with her red carpet look. Yes, it was short. Yes, it was tight. And yes, it showed a fair amount of skin (or, at least, the illusion of skin). But that rich orange hue looks absolutely divine against her olive skin and dark locks (hey, where’s the blue?!), and the all-over beading really is a work of art (though the shoes are a total snooze fest).
Hitting the stage in a new ensemble, baby Jenner also looked undeniably pretty in her printed mini dress, a look she kept pared down with minimal jewelry, another nude lip, and basic strappy sandals.
Switching in the middle of the show, Jenner ditched her short hemlines in favor of a fresh, color-blocked ensemble that — while leaving room for improvement in the pants department — looked both playful and mature (and most definitely fashion-forward) all at the same time.
Let’s see a close up of that amazing top.
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Just as I expected: Structured, satiny, and oh-so chic. And even though it’s showing a little more skin than I would want my 16-year-old daughter (or sister or niece) revealing, there’s no denying that it’s a fierce piece of fashion that goes beyond your typical Kardashian klothing. And that’s something to be applauded, right?
Cape Town designer stars on the red carpet
2014 June 7. | Szerző: shannon
A local designer is in the spotlight after actress and model Tanit Phoenix wore one of his designs to the Hollywood premiere of Maleficent.
Jas Myburgh, a fashion and design lecturer at Cape Peninsula University of Technology (CPUT), has designed four evening gowns for Phoenix, one for each of the premieres. The rest will take place in Tokyo, London and Sydney.
Phoenix is dating South African actor Sharlto Copley, who plays the part of King Stephan in the dark fantasy film. Maleficent is Disney’s spin on Sleeping Beauty. Copley co-stars with Angelina Jolie and Elle Fanning.
Jolie wore a Versace gown to the May 28 world premiere at the El Capitan Theatre, while her husband Brad Pitt wore Gucci. But Phoenix opted for a South African designer.
Myburgh studied fashion design at CPUT in 1990. He spent two years working in Spain, and started designing under his own name when he came back.
He is passionate about teaching, and the clothes he makes. Myburgh has dressed several South African models and celebrities, and has been involved in national and international competitions.
He met Phoenix – who was born in Durban – in 2006. He designed her lingerie for a shoot, and they stayed in touch and became friends. In August last year, she told Myburgh she’d love to wear a local garment to the premiere.
Phoenix was in the country for three months last year, and Myburgh started working on the gowns.
“I tried to keep a very unique look for her. The garments are African and South African inspired,” he says.
“There is so much inspiration in Africa. It is one of the big trends at the moment, with lots of colour. We took that and transformed it into a glamorous evening gown. Something special with a story behind it.”
The bodice is made of silk tulle, with an Ndebele pattern embroidered on it. Black crystal beads were hand-sewn. It took about a month to make.
“In the South African clothing industry, the seamstresses get so little credit for what they do,” says Myburgh. “It’s something that’s dying out. The specialists in this field are getting old, and the new generation aren’t interested in this aspect of design.
Myburgh is passionate about keeping it alive, as the “fabrication” – creating the details on fabric by hand – is very important to him.
“Hand beading, embroidering, and how a garment is finished off … the reason for couture is how a garment is made,” he says.
While Phoenix wasn’t part of the film, her dress did attract a lot of attention. Myburgh says his social media profile spiked considerably.
“It’s a designer’s dream to dress a celebrity and to be in the spotlight, and on the same platform as Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. I’m on cloud nine. It’s the beginning of something new, and very exciting,” he says.
While he can’t reveal what the other garments look like just yet, Myburgh says they are all African-inspired pieces of couture.
“I just hope the movie gets an Oscar. I really want to make her dress for the Oscars,” he says.
Who’s that girl?
Model and actress Tanit Phoenix, 29, was born in Durban, but now lives in Cape Town and Los Angeles.
Phoenix has been in a relationship with actor Sharlto Copley since January 2012. Copely, who acts in Maleficent, also starred in Elysium and District 9. Phoenix has appeared in Spud, Death Race: Inferno, and Safe House.
She started her career in Durban at the age of 14 and has appeared in local and international commercials, on magazine covers and in lingerie campaigns.
Her name seems like the perfect stage name, but it is her real name.
On her Facebook fanpage, Phoenix writes that she is inspired by her work.
“I love everything about modelling, film and acting and it has always stemmed from observing people and understanding the human condition,” she writes.
When acting and modelling, she shows her vulnerability.
“It’s such amazing self-expression, showing raw emotions. It’s empowering and exhilarating. Such a challenge.”
Michael B. Jordan Talks Fragrance, Fake Lashes, and Getting Ripped for Fantastic Four
2014 August 14. | Szerző: shannon
Michael B. Jordan is one of those actors who is in everything awesome, ever. On TV in The Wire, Friday Night Lights, Parenthood, plus movies like Fruitvale Station—and now he just finished filming the new Fantastic Four movie, where he’ll be playing Johnny Storm (aka The Human Torch). I caught up with the upcoming superhero, who’s also the face of Axe Gold Temptation, to find out what else tempts him.
You’re the face of Axe Gold Temptation—what do you like about the fragrance?
“When I smelled it, I thought it was something my friends and I would wear for sure. It has chocolate notes in it and a little spice to it. I’ve had a few girls say it’s something they would wear themselves, which is a good compliment.”
Do you remember your first fragrance?
“Jean Paul Gaultier. I was 13.”
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That’s a sexy scent for a 13-year-old.
“I was at my best friend’s house and his older brother had it. I don’t have an older brother, so I looked to him for a lot of fashion and style.”
How do you like a woman to smell?
“Like roses, like morning dew. No, I’m kidding. It’s hard to describe what I like, but when I smell it, I want to stay there in that little crevice of her neck. I just want to sleep there.”
What’s the sexiest thing a girl can wear on a first date?
“I like a lot of styles, but bangs for whatever reason. And not a lot of makeup, but a subtle, natural lip tone and pretty, smooth skin. I don’t like a lot of makeup.”
And the least sexy?
“I appreciate being able to run my hand through a girl’s hair and not catch anything. Or wake up and not see that an eyelash is gone. It’s better to just take it off. You’re fine, you’re beautiful.”
Who’s your style icon?
“Pharrell is pretty fashionable. He made that hat look good. It’s the confidence he had behind it.”
You got close to Zac Efron in That Awkward Moment. Who takes longer to get ready?
“I take a long time, for sure. I”ll put myself under the bus there. Trying to figure out what to wear—I’m that guy.”
You’re playing a superhero this year. What was your prep like?
“I went from eating twice or three times a day to eating seven times a day. I had a meal bag I carried around with me. And lots of pull-ups, boxing, lifting weights, swimming—full body moments. I gained 17 pounds of muscles in the past two and a half months. It’s the biggest I’ve ever been.”
What is your guilty pleasure?
“I watch a lot of Japanese animation. I go online and watch it on Japan’s time. Thursday at 4 in the morning, I’ll be up watching it.”
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